Roos!

We arrived in Canberra at about 5:30pm, and it was already getting dark (it is winter, after all). Twilight is the best time to see kangaroos, so we drove straight to the golf course for a view of the roos. I thought there might be a couple bouncing around, but I wasn’t quite prepared for this…

There must have been about 30 of them altogether (called a mob, not a herd), just roaming around, minding their own business. I moved in for some closer shots (a huge shout out to Kathleen and her AWESOME lens – not sure if she’s getting it back!).

It was such an incredible sight, and I was quite moved by it all as I came to the realization that I was a really, really long way from home. The roos here are very much like our deer back home. They’re very common, they’re shy, they come out at night, they eat grass, and they can kill you if you hit one with your car.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/

On the Road to Canberra

We left the fish market and decided to take the tunnel under the city to get out faster. This is a toll road that was supposed to help with congestion in the downtown area, but they made the toll costs so high that it is prohibitive for most people to afford to use it on a regular basis. Consequently, they have a very expensive tunnel that hasn’t helped at all with the congestion problems.

And they are a little bit sneaky. We entered the tunnel, thinking we would be able to zip through to the other side, but about 20 feet in, a sign informed us that there was an incident ahead. There were no signs outside of the tunnel warning us that it was blocked, and once inside, you are trapped.

We crawled along for quite some time, but eventually got on the highway to Canberra. It’s about a 3-hour drive, so we broke up the trip with a quick stop at McDonalds (no pics – I figure you all know what it looks like). I looked for some “different” offerings from McD’s, but they were few. I had a Seared Chicken Sweet Chili wrap which was actually really good (grilled chicken with heaps of lettuce and cucumber, and a spicy-sweet Thai chili sauce). To drink, I had an apple-black currant fizzy juice to drink and was very satisfied without falling into that grotty post-McD’s stupor.

Surprisingly, coffee is nowhere to be found. Well, let me re-phrase that; Timmy-style “drip” coffee is difficult to find. There is much more Starbucks-type coffee available – flat white, latte, espresso, etc. And there are NO drive-thrus…I really don’t know if I can call this a civilized country!

But they do have something that we really ought to import to the Prairies. The drive to Canberra is a long one, and there are US-style rest stops along the way (each one named after a soldier who earned a Victoria Cross). On long weekends and holidays, the traffic increases just as it does in Canada – everyone escapes from the cities. And also, just like Canada, traffic accidents increase as well.

In an effort to reduce the number of accidents, volunteers set up “Driver Revivers” at each of the rest stops. These are little trailers set up with free hot tea and bikkies. They are completely volunteer run, usually by Lions Club members or other community groups. The Driver Reviver program has corporate sponsorship – tea is provided by Bushnell’s and cookies by Arnott’s. At our stop, they also had Milo (like Ovaltine), much to the delight of Cathy’s kids.

As you can see by the map below, there is quite a network of these sites. I can’t help but think how wonderful it would be to have a Driver Reviver on the way to Saskatoon!

Speaking of the Prairies, I felt right at home at this particular rest stop.

I thought the Dodds’s were trying to put one over on me when they said this area is called “Lake George”, but that is in fact its name. Every 100 years or so, this whole basin inexplicably fills with water creating a huge lake. No one is very sure where the water comes from, or where it goes when the lake dries up, but it is a phenomenon that happens very rarely.

As we drove up and out of Lake George, we entered more hilly country with small mountains visible in the background (kind of like the foothills of the Rockies). Canberra is located in the ACT (Australian Capital Territory), which is nestled by the Brindabella Mountains. The terrain is very familiar looking and I feel like I could be driving through the area west of Calgary or the rolling hills of southern Ontario.

And then something appears to remind you that you really are in a different country.

Sydney Fish Market

Today we are heading down to Canberra to visit with Doddsie’s parents and extended family (more on that later). We stopped to pick up some seafood at the famous Fish Market. It was just before noon, so we didn’t see the boats coming in, but it was an incredible sight nonetheless.

Prices weren’t as cheap as I was thought they would be, but you could buy just about anything your heart desired. And I don’t think it could come any fresher.

Cathy was shocked to hear that we have pelicans in Regina, but we most certainly do. I tried to get a picture of a pelican with Cathy’s family for Barb (her sister in Canada), but this fellow was the only one we could find, and I thought it would be too much to ask to have her family jump in the drink for a picture.

Darling Harbour and Chinatown

After a very leisurely morning, Cathy and I headed out to Darling Harbour. It was a bit tricky to get around as they were setting up for the FIFA Fanfest. A huge screen was set up on a floating platform on the water, and they were showing the games late at night. Although the World Cup does get the Ozzies into party mode, it really is Rugby (both League and Union) that sets them on fire. I think they know that their soccer teams don’t have much of a chance on the world stage. Cricket would be second to rugby before soccer.

We headed to the World’s Largest IMAX theatre to see a movie called Australia, Land Beyond Time. It described how the continent was formed, then went into some of the unique wildlife and how they have adapted to the harsh conditions in the arid centre. I learned a few interesting facts about kangaroos.

Did you know that female kangaroos…

– often have an embryo in the womb, a joey in the pouch and a teenager to look after besides?

– will produce different kinds of milk, at the same time, to feed their differently aged babies?

– can halt the development of their embryos if environmental conditions get bad?

If only we all had those abilities!

After the movie, we took the monorail into Chinatown. In the picture below, you can see the large red brick building that is Paddy’s Market. The bottom floor is half flea market and half food market, and the top floor houses a large dim sum restaurant (which is called yum cha here).

We stopped for a snack, and I have never eaten better dim sum in my life.

Mmmmmm…..fresh, fresh, fresh seafood. And then I saw the tanks and realized why it all tasted so good…

Fortified with dead sea creatures, we made our way down to the markets to do some shopping. It very much reminded me of the market in Birmingham that I walked through with Fred. Incredibly fresh (and foreign!) produce, a huge seafood bar filled with all manner of interesting things, and a flea market beside that sold all sorts of great Australian souvenirs (including stuffed platypuses!).

I purchased a custard apple (tasted like a creamy pear), a RIPE papaya, and a golden kiwi that was as large as both of my fists. But I lost my heart over the passionfruit. An unassuming avocado-like exterior gives way to a slimy green seed-filled interior with small black seeds. You scoop out the interior and slurp it up with a spoon. Tart-sweet and divine – I am passionate for passionfruit!! I am heartbroken that I will never be able to eat this in Regina.

SHARK!!!

I’m popping this one up out of order, but I figured you’d all want to see this. I had the most AMAZING experience at the Manly aquarium. First, I watched a safety video that was set to the theme of Jaws – just to set the mood. Then we all got suited up and entered the practice pool where I was taught a few techniques. They said the water temperature was 18 degrees, but it felt a lot colder. The water and the small fish are washed in directly from the ocean, so that would have been the water temperature at the beach.

After I passed my 3 requirements (removing and replacing the regulator, clearing my mask, and a bouyancy test), we entered into the aquarium. I was first in, and I made my instructor howl with laughter with the expression on my face. You’ll see that expression yourself, as it doesn’t disappear for the whole dive.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CWqJnnFCVhQ

We descended about 4 metres to the bottom and walked along the sand, rather than swimming, as that would disturb the animals too much. We were only allowed to touch certain animals, and one of the first things we did was pet a GIANT sea turtle – he was longer than me, about the size of a small car.

We made our way to the viewing spot, sidestepping rays and smaller sharks that were lurking on the bottom. And then the sharks came….

Even though I knew that these were “tame” grey nurse sharks (sand tigers in the US) that were probably as docile as farm animals, it still is incredible to come face to face with a mouthful of teeth and those staring cold eyes. I had the theme from Jaws running through my head the entire dive, which probably didn’t help. These monsters would cruise by, literally about 10 inches from my face. The video shows only a few minutes of the 30 that we were underwater, but it gives you a sense of what it was like.

Truly an incredible experience.

Thank you, Fred.

Bondi, Part 2

Apologies for not posting for awhile, but I was in Canberra for the long weekend and had no Internet access. I have loads of stuff to get up here, which I will get to tonight. I am going for my swim with the sharks today at the Manly Oceanarium…

On our way back to Bondi Beach, Cathy pointed out to me the Bondi Iceberg swim club. I have never seen anything like this, but I guess this type of pool is quite common over here. The pool is built next to the beach, so that the waves crashing over the edge keep it filled with water, but it’s high enough that the sharks and other wildlife can’t get in. I was reassured to see that a couple of people were doing laps without a wetsuit.

As we headed back to the beach, Cathy pointed out the 2 flags planted in the sand. Every day, the lifeguards will determine which part of the beach is safest to swim in and they put up the flags. If you swim in that area, then you know that you have someone watching over you. The system is run partly by the Sydney Lifesaving Service, and partly volunteers.

There was a very strong wind, and it looked like a storm was blowing in, so I had to make a decision – it’s now or never! With trepidation, I made my way towards the water and let the waves wash over my feet. It was warmer than the air!!!! Cathy laughed and said normally she has difficulty finding her relatives amongst the thousands of people on the beach, but she certainly wasn’t going to have a problem today. Every Aussie I’ve met is HORRIFIED that I went for a swim at Bondi. I have to say it is pretty amusing to see everyone bundled up in their scarves and parkas and boots. I have to keep reminding myself that it is winter here.

Bondi Beach

After our morning walk, we decided to take a drive to Bondi Beach. It was a beautiful day so I thought it would be a great time to take a swim. Cathy was skeptical, but I insisted on putting on my suit, just to be prepared. Because it is winter here, I wasn’t expecting to see crowds of people at the beach, but I wasn’t prepared for just how empty it was.

Hmmmm….I was beginning to have second thoughts – the surfers were in full wetsuits, and the people on the beach were in parkas and scarves. Cathy suggested we go for a walk first, so I wouldn’t get too cold.

We made our way along the path and I was amazed at the rock formations – the water had created fantastical sculptures in the cliff faces, some of which even served as shelters for the homeless.

We rounded the head and had a lovely panoramic view out over the Pacific.

Cathy explained that “across the ditch” was New Zealand. The sound of the waves crashing against the shore was so loud, it almost drowned out conversation. Despite the decibel level, it was very soothing and easily put you in a contemplative mood pondering those eternal questions. Like whether or not you should go for a swim! There were a quite a few hardy souls out surfing on the crashing waves.

Stay tuned to see if yours truly was brave enough to dip her toe in the ocean!

Flora and Fauna

Today I was introduced to Australia’s wildlife….

Actually, that’s Billy (age 10) and the twins, Simon and Matthew who are the same age as James. Cathy also has a beautiful red-haired daughter named Rachel (age 9).

After they went to school, Cathy took me on a bushwalk that’s very close to her house. The terrain reminded me of northern Ontario – lots of big rocky outcrops, cliffs and hills. What made the difference was the vegetation. It was like walking through a Dr. Seuss book. Crazy plants, ferns larger than trees, plants that are houseplants back home but here they tower over you like something out of Little Shop of Horrors. Add to that the parrots and lizards and strange fungi, and you are definitely in unfamiliar territory.

I arrived after a week straight of rain, so the path was muddy, but there were little streams and waterfalls everywhere that Cathy mentioned weren’t normally there.

The park we were walking through is maintained by volunteers who regularly go through and weed out noxious species. They are vigilant as introduced species can get out of control rather quickly.

We walked up an escarpment and had a beautiful view of the Lane Cove River where Cathy has started rowing with a club early in the morning. The river has undergone a rehabilitation since they prohibited motorized boats from entering, and apparently the bull shark population has exploded. Bull sharks are quite aggressive and can attack people – in fact a surfer recently lost an arm to one. So nature has come back with a vengeance.

Cathy’s mates very kindly suffered through my exclamations every 3 feet as I discovered something new and crazy. I forgot that they do this walk to get some exercise, so I tried to snap photos on the go.

First Day

The drive from the airport to Cathy’s really brought it home – I saw the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge and heard the kookaburras laughing. And then we got to Cathy’s gorgeous house, and she showed me to MY house. They have a completely separate little house where they have their living room with a plasma TV, a huge bed, and a completely re-done bathroom that makes me feel like I’m in the best hotel (even better than Eau Claire!). Here’s a couple of pics – note that it is late autumn, so you’ll see some of the trees have turned orange and dropped their leaves.

And some shots of their beautiful backyard

Note the cricket wicket – it’s a country that is MAD for cricket! And here are some shots of the interior of my guest house

After a refreshing shower in my spa-like bathroom (I’m taking notes for redoing ours), we were off to lunch. Cathy suggested a touristy pub down at the Rocks which is right beside the harbour where all the famous sights are. We had pizza – touristy-style (kangaroo and emu), washed down with a local schooner of ale as we caught each other up on the last 20 years of our lives. Amazingly, kangaroo and emu DON’T taste like chicken, more like tender lean beef. In fact, we figured the kitchen probably used beef, and put kangaroo sauce on one and emu sauce on the other. Who would know?

After our lunch, we strolled down to Circular Quay and took in the sights…

We walked past the Museum of Contemporary Art, and took a detour into Customs House (library/art gallery) where they have this fantastic miniature model of Sydney under the floor.

The Circular Quay is home to many buskers and street performers. We watched a mime, a guy on a 12 foot unicycle, and I saw my first Aborigines playing didgeridoos while hawking CDs of their work. I found the music amazing, but I could see how quickly you could get sick of it in a hurry.

OK, so Fred was absolutely right – I couldn’t possibly have had two more extreme experiences. The flight from Regina to Vancouver was on one of the oldest planes in the Air Canada fleet – tiny, dated interior, no TVs, etc. Fast forward 12 hours and I’m entering into the Executive class cabin for my flight to Sydney. It’s difficult to wipe the smile off my face as I get comfy in my pod and enjoy a glass of complimentary champagne. Take off is prompt and then it’s time for the food.  The appetizer arrives – smoked salmon with a fennel and orange salad (mine’s better!).

This was followed by a delicious cajun halibut with tomato mango salsa and a lovely Sauvignon Blanc.

The cheese course was next which I didn’t photograph as it was pretty straightforward, and then dessert – warm chocolate lava cake and ice cream. Oh, and also a nice Port from Portugal. Yup, I was feeling pretty good by dessert!

With a full tummy, and realizing that it was about 2:00am Regina time, I settled down for a good night’s sleep in my lie-flat bed. It took awhile to figure out the controls…

but then I realized that if I just kept pressing all of them, I could eventually find a position that supported every inch of my body. I still couldn’t get the smile off my face…

I slept a little fitfully, occasionally waking up with a start, wondering where I was. And then I realized where I was, and the smiling would begin all over again. Hours later, breakfast arrived. The BEST warm chocolate croissants I’ve ever had (and that includes the Guelph ones), with tea and fruit, followed by a delicious parsley omelette and chicken sausage with an apple and raisin compote. Just the thing to get you fortified for the strenuous day ahead. I must mention that I had a wonderful flight attendant who was quite attentive, and seemed to appreciate the fact that I was having so much fun. The Executive cabin was filled mostly with older cranky-looking men who didn’t crack a smile at the staff. It was then that I realized I had entered through the Looking Glass where everything was backwards – cheerful attendants and cranky passengers! My flight attendant insisted on taking a picture of me so I could send it back to my husband, so this one’s for you, Fred:

I caught my first glimpses of AU as we came in for the landing, but it wasn’t until we got to the terminal that I began to realize the I was in a VERY foreign country. We were not allowed to get off the plane until the AU quarantine agents walked through the cabin and sprayed the whole interior and our carry-on bags with insecticide (it smelled like OFF). Then, it was off to customs, where they confiscated my homemade trail mix, but thankfully not my Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups and Skor bars that I brought for Cathy and her kids.

AU has one of the strictest quarantine procedures in the world because it is an island. Any food, wood, plant or soil material was strictly prohibited. It was fascinating to watch people unloading their suitcases at customs – a lot of strangely marked packages from Asian countries were confiscated and tossed in the garbage. I even saw one woman holding up what looked like a mesh bag of potatoes. It was all very orderly and I was through in no time. Out into the airport I went, trying to see Cathy amongst the crowd gathered around the exit. I looked, and looked, and looked some more. The thought occurred to me that it would probably have been a good idea to write down Cathy’s phone number before I left, as I really had no idea where she lived. My brain was just beginning to go into “oh, shit” mode when I saw her running towards the gate. She was here! And she looked exactly as I remembered her. Tears came to my eyes as we flung our arms around each other and squealed, drawing smiles and glances from the people around us. It was as if we were back in high school again.

My first day was full of activity, but that post will have to wait until tomorrow. I’ve managed to stay up until midnight, but I am rapidly feeling the effects of the last 24 hours. I’ll leave you all with some of my first glimpses of the continent.